As it’s in the peak of summer, the daily news reports of scorching heat can be overwhelming. In Japan, summer nights, which are slightly cooler than the daytime, have always held a special charm, just as Sei Shonagon declared over a thousand years ago in her masterpiece: “In spring, it is the dawn… in summer, the nights…” And what brings color to these summer nights? Festivals! One simply must go to a festival in the summer!
While Japan is home to various festivals, from Kishiwada’s Danjiri Festival to the famously eccentric Gujo Odori in Gifu Prefecture, the Aomori Nebuta Festival stands out with a unique brilliance. Its tradition is impressive, of course, but the sight of the giant “nebuta” floats parading through the night’s darkness is breathtakingly powerful, even on television. I’m sure many people have thought they’d like to see it in person at least once.
In fact, new “nebuta” are created every year, and each one is made entirely by the hands of artisans who have inherited traditional techniques. No two are the same—from the expressions on their faces and the flow of their hair to the patterns on their kimono—which is why they captivate so many people year after year. While enjoying the festival’s vibrant atmosphere with a drink from a food stall is great, why not take a moment to gaze intently at the “nebuta” as masterpieces of paper and light?
There are various theories about the origins of Nebuta, but it is generally believed to be a variation of the lantern-floating ceremony of the Tanabata (Star Festival).
The theory goes that the Tanabata Festival, which came from China during the Nara period (710-794), merged with ancient local customs and events in the Aomori region. Later, as paper, bamboo, and candles became widely available, people began making lanterns for the festival. It is thought that these evolved into the doll-shaped floats we see today. There are slight regional differences even within Aomori; in the city of Hirosaki, for instance, the festival is affectionately known as “Neputa.”
The Making of a “Nebuta”: A Giant, Composite Artwork
Each year, over 30 large and small Nebuta are created over a period of about three months, following initial sketches. The process begins by shaping the frame with wood and wire, much like creating a sculpture. It’s astonishing to think that in the past, this was all done with bamboo! Next comes the electrical wiring, with some of the larger floats requiring up to 1,000 light bulbs. Then, paper is stretched over the frame, and a process of outlining with sumi ink, coating with wax, and coloring—all based on traditional Japanese painting techniques—is carried out to complete the piece. As the motifs are often based on historical figures and myths, historical research is also part of the process. As the completed Nebuta is lifted by 30 to 40 adults, we can finally see it with our own eyes.
The design, the size, the three-dimensionality—you won’t see anything like it anywhere else. And what’s more, when the festival begins, these Nebuta start to move. Now you’re starting to realize the incredible nature of this festival.
For those who just can’t make it on the festival days, I highly recommend a visit to the Nebuta Museum WA RASSE, a cultural tourism facility, accessible from Aomori Station. The museum fully introduces the history and charm of the Nebuta Festival, which has watched over the city’s development, and also allows visitors to see the large Nebuta that participated in the actual festival up close throughout the year. You can even touch parts of a Nebuta and immerse yourself in the experience with festival music (Nebuta-bayashi) playing in the background.
Enjoying Nebuta at Home
As beautiful and powerful as the Nebuta are, the works created each year were unfortunately discarded. “NEBUTA STYLE” is an initiative that decided to focus on this issue. They carefully peel off the washi paper from the large Nebuta floats and upcycle it into interior lighting or use it for hotel shoji screens. Through collaborations with top-tier Nebuta artisans, numerous manufacturers, designers, and artists, new value is being brought to the Nebuta.
If “Nebuta” could be promoted to the world as a representative art form from Aomori, Japan, it would surely bring even more excitement to the Nebuta Festival. If festival culture and artworks like the Nebuta were to be exhibited in museums around the globe, it might just change the way we see “Nebuta” altogether.
